• Climber halfway on Guillaumet spire

GUILLAUMET SPIRE
Guided Climbing in Southern Patagonia – Amy Couloir, Fonrouge or Brenner route

Length Trip
6 Days or 3 days

Season
November- March


Level
Advanced rock climbers able to follow 5.10/ 60/70º ice climbs.


Style
Alpine climbing on granite. Some snow/ice (Brenner). Snow and ice climbing (Amy Couloir)

DETAILS

This expedition is a alpine climbing trip in Southern Patagonia. The Aguja Guillaumet is a satellite spire of the Fitz Roy Massif.  It takes its name from Henri Guillaumet, a French pilot who flew his small postal plane to small towns of Patagonia crossing the high Andes. Along with Antoine de Saint-Exupery and Jean Mermoz, he established the first mail routes in remote areas around the world.

ITINERARY

Day 1:
Your mountain guide will meet you in El Chalten, Argentina.  Get to know your guide and go over gear, take an easy day for some sport climbing and check skills and communication
Night in El Chalten.

Day 2:
Leaving El Chalten with your climbing guide, we hike 3 hours to Piedra del Fraile.  This will be our basecamp. Weather permitting, we will continue on closer to the base of the Guillaumet Spire and carry our gear load to Camp I, Vivac Piedra Negra.
Wait until weather improves at Base Camp or Camp I, and get ready for our alpine climbing ascent.Bivouac or tent according to weather

Day 3:
Your mountain guide will get you up for alpine start to climb the Guillaumet Spire by the Amy route:  4 pitches 60-70º snow/ice culoir + 4 pitches of 5.9 alpine climbing.  OR, climb the Brenner route on the Espolon Dorado (Golden Spur): amazing granite climb of 5.10+ for just one pitch and the rest 5.6 to 5.9 with some mixed scrambling involved.
Climbs depend on condition Rappel down. Hike back to Camp I.Night in bivouac or tent

Day 4:
Bring loads down to Base Camp and El Chalten.  Celebratory meal at the end of the expedition with a typical Patagonian asado.

Day 5/6/7:
Weather days. End of guiding services.

*This itinerary is a guideline and must be flexible to Patagonia’s infamous weather.
If weather is not favorable for climbing your mountain guide will take you to do alternative activities such as:
Hike to Marconi Pass, which is the entrance to the Patagonian Ice Cap.
Bouldering and Sport Climbing near El Chalten.
Hike to Cerro Torre and Fitz Roy base camp.
Your mountain guide will have numerous other ideas for activities to explore such as trekking through the Glaciers National Park or going on a technical trek.

If the weather is good and you complete the climbing ascent of Guillaumet within the first few days, your mountain guide can take you to climb more spires or suggest different activities for the rest of your vacation.

GEAR LIST

This gear list is designed for Multiday Expedition in the mountains staying in tents or huts for extended period of time as our Expedition to Monte San Lorenzo, San Valentin, Skiing Ice Cap traverse Mountains as Gorra Blanca on skis

  • Backpack 42-50 lts
  • Sleeping bag ideal 700/800 grams of down fill
  • Sleeping pad as Therm-a-Rest or similar
  • Bivy sack
  • 2 pairs of  sintethic socks (like Columbia or similar)
  • Quick dry pants with Schoeller material (North face, Mammut or similar)
  • Merino wool long underwear
  • Water proof Goretex pants
  • T shirt- Capilene or Merino wool ideal
  • Thin fleece, like Patagonia R1 or similar with a hood ideal
  • Mid fleece layer or synthetic Jacket with some insulation
  • Down jacket or warm puffy
  • Water proof Goretex jacket
  • Thin Fleece gloves for skinning or waiting in belays
  • Thick ski gloves
  • Warm hat
  • Sun hat
  • Sunglasses with UV filter + Goggles
  • Sun screen and lipstick
  • Waterbottle Nalgene or similar
  • Thermos 0.5 liters ideal for warm drinks
  • Crocs

For Ski Trips:

  • Helmet
  • Telemark, Split board  or ski touring skis and bindings
  • Skins
  • Telemark, Snowboard or ski touring boots
  • Shovel, Beacon and probe
  • Boot Crampons and ice axe
  • Ski crampons mandatory specially in the spring
  • Ski poles
  • Harness
  • 2 Locking binners

Camping:

  • Mug  or Small Tupperware – pot for meals- or similar
  • Headlamp (Petzl Tikka plus, Black diamond or similar) – long reach ideal, but lightweight and extra batteries
  • Jetboil or Primus ETALite (ideal)
  • Spoon / fork
  • lighters
  • Pocket knife
  • Iphone/ Ipod music player- optional
  • Earplugs… very recommended (for Mt huts, windy days in tents)
  • Tooth brush and paste

PHOTO GALLERY

Rate for the week ascent program for 6 days:
1 client- usd 3300 / per client
2 clients- usd 1850 / per client

Rate for a normal 3 days ascent:
Approach to Piedra Negra/ Ascent-Descent/ Back to Chalten

Contact us for pricing!


UIAGM-IFMGA Mountain Guide
Climbing gear
Tents
Cookware
All main meals in the mountains

Not included: 
Lodging in El Chalten
Meals in town
Personal gear such as boots, climbing shoes, sleeping bag.
Daily camping fee at base camp at Piedra del Fraile
Extra lunch snacks


On request

ANDESCROSS
IS RECOMMENDED BY

70% RATE OF RETURNING CLIENTS FOR OVER 10 YEARS

The Andescross family comes back to Southamerica with us and also to Antarctica, Norway, Iceland and the Alps for more good times.

“Back in 2006 I decided I wanted to try backcountry skiing and soon after I ended up contacting Jorgito at Andescross, which was already a very respected guiding company in Argentina.”

The idea of climbing all the mountains and volcanos in patagonia in the winter time and skiing them on the way down sounded too good to be true. Our first trip with Andescross was to Frey Hut with a couple of my brothers. The skiing conditions were as bad as Patagonia can offer so we ended up 2 days stuck in the hut in the midle of a storm and one day skiing on pure ice… 

Marcos Q.Tigre, BA, Argentina

“About 10 years ago I contacted Jorge about doing a hut to hut ski trip in the mountains around Bariloche. I chose him because he was a fully certified International Mountain guide.”

This trip proved to be nothing short of fantastic. Jorge was professional, friendly, knowledgeable of the area we were traveling through and was a great travel partner. He took care of my travel arrangements in Bariloche, booked my room for me before and after the trip, and even picked me up at the airport. The next year, I returned for a volcano ski trip with Jorge. We were fortunate enough to ski from the summit of four volcanoes. In the last decade, I have traveled with him at least 8 times.  We have skied in Chile and Argentina numerous times, including a trip to the Patagonian Ice-fields.

Tomfriend more than client since 2005

“I have skied with Jorge and Andescross in the Andes and the Alps in Europe.   Simply put, the Andes Mountain range is Jorge’s backyard and he knows then well.”

In my view, I think it would be very difficult to find another South American based guide with comparable years of experience in the Andes, guiding credentials, and local knowledge.  Over the years, Jorge has gained significant knowledge of the Alps and many other mountain ranges in the world which he includes in his worldwide adventure trips.  He is able to quickly gauge conditions, make safe decisions, and find great untracked skiing.  

Peter Musziclient for first time in 2008

“Jorge se ha convertido con el tiempo en un amigo cercano más que en un guía.”

Hemos compartido muchas aventuras juntos en varias partes del mundo como los Alpes, Bariloche y Chalten, y siempre regresamos de cada viaje pensando en el próximo. Para que un viaje sea exitoso tiene que tener su cuota de riesgo y cautela, algo muy difícil de lograr pero que Jorge siempre ha sabido manejar. Seguramente les quemara la cabeza hablando de… Paciencia estimados clientes!!, nadie es perfecto.

Francisco J.San Isidro, BA, Argentina

“In just over a six year period, we have done five trips with Jorge and have committed to a sixth next year. We must like this guy! Jorge is THE guide for your Patagonia adventures…and beyond! ”

Our first trip with Jorge in 2010 was for backcountry skiing around Bariloche, Argentina. While we were temporarily weathered out of higher terrain due to high avalanche danger from tons of new snow, we never lacked for fun, challenging, and noteworthy alternatives. He shared with us his hometown stashes, something only a generous local guide could do. Jorge is a consummate mountain guide. He is completely client focused. He is a first rate professional. We trust his judgement, thrill in his ski adventures, and have been blessed to enjoy the beautiful outdoors around the world with him.

Larina & BobSeattle, WA, USA

“40 years ago I flew down to Argentina in my summer for downhill training in the Andes.
I was then racing on the World Cup circuit and so having 4 weeks on snow in summer was really useful training.”

I fell in love with Bariloche and returned the next year again. Sadly this was the last time I made to South America and then, when skiing in Iceland, I bumped into a friend of our guide, John Falkiner. We shared a few beers waiting for our airplane to fly home and John explained that his friend, Jorge, was a guide down in Argentina and that helped in Bariloche.

Konrad Bartelski A British Legend in Ski Racing in 1981

“Jorge and team helped with all the fairly complex planning and logistics for a supported backpacking trip across the Andes”

From Bariloche to Puerto Frias for our group of 10 people, and guided us safely along the route.  He and his guides were exceptionally competent, knowledgeable and professional, and everyone had a great time.  I would highly recommend Andescross!

Cheryl from The Mountaineers Hiking Club, Seattle WA

“I am currently travelling the world on a sabbatical, looking for amazing experiences. During a stop across south america, I wanted to rock climb in the Frey national park, near Bariloche.”

I found the Andescross team on the internet, and they teamed me up for 3 days with a world class guide instructor. I am a novice rock climber, and my guide Luciano not only provided me with amazing climbing coaching tips, but allowed me to push myself to go beyond my comfort zone, in all safety. And once the climbing was over (once summits were achieved and I could not feel my forearms anymore), it was time for some of the best hospitality I have found on the road this last year. Great dinners, food, friends and laughter to fill our evening, until the call of the rock would get us out of our sleeping bag the next morning.

Patrick , Ex-Google CFOSFO , USA

“Jorge has excellent personal skills and appreciation of my climbing abilities. ”

Brian climber from CanadaI had the pleasure of meeting Jorge in December 2008. My wife and I were in Bariloche, on holiday in Argentina. Jorge had been recommended to us by a climbing friend back home in Canada. I was able to contact him by phone and we worked out a rendez-vous at the Refugio Frey for a day’s climbing on the rock. His knowledge of the area and the realistic time needed to complete various options, made it easy for me to reach a decision. What followed was one of the best days in the mountains that I have experienced over a lifetime in the sport.

Brian, 65, IrishCanadian climbing legend of Squamish, Canada

“Had a FANTASTIC time and thank you so much for all your help and the great guides. Great meeting you!!!!”

We are in BA, but head to Brazil tomorow and am just going to eat, drink and sleep! Anytime you head to Europe, you always have a place to stay in London and hopefully we will be back SOON!”

SachaLondon, UK, January 08