CLIMB THE GOLDEN GRANITE FREY SPIRES
After a four hour approach through the Nahuel Huapi National Park we hike into the valley of Laguna Toncek, situated at 1,700 meters above sea level. You’ll be stunned by the beauty of the jagged granite spires of Cerro Catedral. There are around 200 traditional and sport routes (mostly trad) to enjoy on the different spires such as El Monje, Aguja Frey, Aguja El Tonto, M2, El Abuelo, La Vieja, Campanile, and Cohete Lunar.
Climbs average 3-4 pitches, but we can show you good 6- 8 pitch climbs too. Mostly traditional climbing in between 4 th / 7b French grade ( 5.7 to 5.12’s YDS). This golden granite offers pure cracks systems, slabs, face climbing, “chicken heads”, and delicate smearing climbs.
Most of the modern routes were put up by Michel Piola, Rolando Garibotti, Sebastian de la Cruz, Ramiro Calvo, Manuel Rapaport and others in the ‘80s and ‘90s. These climbers established an aesthetic combination of bolted and trad protection climbs. You can find some run-outs and some well protected routes. In most cases, bolts were placed only as necessary, which gives Frey a “traditional” alpine crag feeling.
After climbing all day we can go for a dip in Laguna Toncek to cool off. Then, we’ll head to the hut,Refugio Frey, which offers very good pizza and wine.
The alpine setting, beautiful golden granite spires, and the variety of climbs makes Frey one of the best areas for rock climbing in South America! Life in Frey is perfect!
For this rock climbing trip, we strongly recommend hiring a Professional IFMGA UIAGM or AAGM Mountain Guide.
This gear list is designed for Multiday Climbing days in the mountains where we need to camp or use facilities of a hut, we hike on rocks and scree and some patches of snow. No glacier in general
- Backpack 35-42 liters if you need sleeping bag the bigger
- Sleeping bag ideal 600/700 grams of down fill
- Running or approach shoes for rock
- Climbing Quick dry pants with Schoeller material (North face, Mammut or similar)
- T shirt- Capilene or Merino wool ideal
- Thin fleece, like Patagonia R1 or similar with a hood ideal
- Mid fleece layer or synthetic Jacket with some insulation
- Down jacket or warm puffy
- Water proof Goretex jacket
- Thin Fleece gloves for skinning or waiting in belays
- Warm hat
- Sun hat
- Sunglasses with UV filter
- Sun screen and lipstick
- Iphone/ Ipod music player- optional
- Earplugs… very recommended (for Mt huts, windy days in tents)
- Tooth brush and paste
- Headlamp (Petzl Tikka plus, Black diamond or similar)
- Pocket knife
- Waterbottle Nalgene or similar
- Hiking poles
- Rock climbing shoes
- Harnness + Daisy Chain + 2 Locking binners
- Locking binner
- Rappel device