GUILLAUMET SPIRE
Guided Climbing in Southern Patagonia – Amy Couloir, Fonrouge or Brenner route

Length Trip
6 Days or 3 days

Season
November- March


Level
Advanced rock climbers able to follow 5.10/ 60/70º ice climbs.


Style
Alpine climbing on granite. Some snow/ice (Brenner). Snow and ice climbing (Amy Couloir)

DETAILS

This expedition is a alpine climbing trip in Southern Patagonia. The Aguja Guillaumet is a satellite spire of the Fitz Roy Massif.  It takes its name from Henri Guillaumet, a French pilot who flew his small postal plane to small towns of Patagonia crossing the high Andes. Along with Antoine de Saint-Exupery and Jean Mermoz, he established the first mail routes in remote areas around the world.

ITINERARY

Day 1:
Your mountain guide will meet you in El Chalten, Argentina.  Get to know your guide and go over gear, take an easy day for some sport climbing and check skills and communication
Night in El Chalten.

Day 2:
Leaving El Chalten with your climbing guide, we hike 3 hours to Piedra del Fraile.  This will be our basecamp. Weather permitting, we will continue on closer to the base of the Guillaumet Spire and carry our gear load to Camp I, Vivac Piedra Negra.
Wait until weather improves at Base Camp or Camp I, and get ready for our alpine climbing ascent.Bivouac or tent according to weather

Day 3:
Your mountain guide will get you up for alpine start to climb the Guillaumet Spire by the Amy route:  4 pitches 60-70º snow/ice culoir + 4 pitches of 5.9 alpine climbing.  OR, climb the Brenner route on the Espolon Dorado (Golden Spur): amazing granite climb of 5.10+ for just one pitch and the rest 5.6 to 5.9 with some mixed scrambling involved.
Climbs depend on condition Rappel down. Hike back to Camp I.Night in bivouac or tent

Day 4:
Bring loads down to Base Camp and El Chalten.  Celebratory meal at the end of the expedition with a typical Patagonian asado.

Day 5/6/7:
Weather days. End of guiding services.

*This itinerary is a guideline and must be flexible to Patagonia’s infamous weather.
If weather is not favorable for climbing your mountain guide will take you to do alternative activities such as:
Hike to Marconi Pass, which is the entrance to the Patagonian Ice Cap.
Bouldering and Sport Climbing near El Chalten.
Hike to Cerro Torre and Fitz Roy base camp.
Your mountain guide will have numerous other ideas for activities to explore such as trekking through the Glaciers National Park or going on a technical trek.

If the weather is good and you complete the climbing ascent of Guillaumet within the first few days, your mountain guide can take you to climb more spires or suggest different activities for the rest of your vacation.

GEAR LIST

This gear list is designed for Climbing long routes in the mountains of Patagonia, as Guillaumet, Fitz Roy or any demanding alpine climbs including camping and climbing gear

  • Backpack 35-40 lts
  • Sleeping bag ideal 600/700 grams of down fill
  • Foam/ Therm-a-rest
  • Bivy Sack
  • 2 pairs of  sintethic socks (like Columbia or similar)
  • Quick dry pants with Schoeller material (North face, Mammut or similar)
  • Merino wool long underwear
  • Water proof Goretex pants
  • Gaiters
  • T shirt- Capilene or Merino wool ideal
  • Thin fleece, like Patagonia R1 or similar with a hood ideal
  • Mid fleece layer or synthetic Jacket with some insulation
  • Down jacket or warm puffy
  • Water proof Goretex jacket
  • Thin Fleece gloves for skinning or waiting in belays
  • Thick ski gloves
  • Warm hat
  • Sun hat
  • Sunglasses with UV filter + Goggles
  • Sun screen and lipstick
  • Iphone/ Ipod music player- optional
  • Earplugs… very recommended (for Mt huts, windy days in tents)
  • Tooth brush and paste
  • Headlamp (Petzl Tikka plus, Black diamond or similar)
  • Pocket knife
  • Waterbottle Nalgene or similar
  • Thermos 0.5 ideal for warm drinks
  • Crocs

For Climbing:

  • Helmet
  • Mountaineering boots like sportiva,- For alpinism- crampon fixable -Insulated- Sportiva trango EVO red or grey ideal
  • Running shoes or better approach shoes for basecamp and some climbs
  • Comfortable rock climbing shoes to use with socks-
  • Hiking poles x 2 (Leki , Black Diamond, etc)- Optional-
  • 2 Ice axes Modern and Light with a good “kick”
  • Mountaineering Crampons – (means semi-automatic with good front spikes, light, with leash on front and automatic set up at the back) Check Grivel G14
  • Harnness + 3 Locking binner
  • Rappel device + prusik cord with locking binner-
  • Few 60 cm dinema slings and few single lightweight binners

Camping:

  • Mug  or Small Tupperware – pot for meals- or similar
  • Headlamp (Petzl Tikka plus, Black diamond or similar) – long reach ideal, but lightweight and extra batteries
  • Waterbottle
  • Jetboil or Primus ETALite (ideal)
  • Spoon / fork
  • lighters
  • Pocket knife

Meals:

  • Cliffbars, Gels like GU/ Clif shots or similar, gummy rubber electrolytes
  • Nuts, Almonds, raisins,
  • Some dehydrated outdoor meals rich in protein/ carbhydrates. Lightweight and powerful!!

PHOTO GALLERY

Rate for the week ascent program for 6 days:
1 client-   usd 3300 / per client
2 clients- usd 1850 / per client

Rate for a normal 3 days ascent:
Approach to Piedra Negra/ Ascent-Descent/ Back to Chalten

1 client-   usd 2450 / per client
2 clients- usd 1450 / per client


UIAGM-IFMGA Mountain Guide
Climbing gear
Tents
Cookware
All main meals in the mountains

Not included: 
Lodging in El Chalten
Meals in town
Personal gear such as boots, climbing shoes, sleeping bag.
Daily camping fee at base camp at Piedra del Fraile
Extra lunch snacks


On request

ANDESCROSS
IS RECOMMENDED BY